Build Diary
October 2007



Started having a go at the bodywork.


Bodywork!  

Problems:
1) 5 big holes on each side of bonnet (cooling).  Need to find a solution for SVA, possible smooth the edges and paint,  maybe do something more complicated with childrens stacking cups (as their edge is nice and rounded).


2) cooling holes on rear edge of bonnet (easily fixed with rubber grommets I think).
Yes get some grommets,


3) small bonnet splits, where the bonnet meets the bulkhead, but I have some fibreglass to fix that.
All nicely fibreglassed up and filled, a very satifying job.


4) lots of star cracking on top of bonnet above wheels, from stones being thrown up
Plan to use that rubbery stuff painted on the underside to prevent this getting worse.  The existing damage will see a bit of sanding, filling, painting (not done yet)


5) fuel cap hole.  This is massive (96mm) with two smaller DZUS fittings either side as the RGB rules require no filler to be on the bodywork, so it was a flap type arrangement.  Either I need to change to a bigger cap, or fill the hole and use the cap that I have.  I think I will go with the second option, as I can always fall back to a bigger cap.
Plan to go with a medium/large aerocap.  These have holes on a 100mm PCD, so it won't fall in!   I have fibred and filled the previous fixing holes.  I have asked for the fuel cap for my birthday, I have already got an aerocap, but it was on sale from Europa, so I doubt I will make a big loss on its sale.


6) Big bonnet hole
I have fitted the GRP power bulge, which looks alright, actually I quite like it.  I haven't done much GRP for a long-long time, so it was nice to get into that.  All very straight forward, latex gloves are an absolute necessity. Filled loads of the holes, an angle grinder does a pretty nice preparation job so that the new fibre adheres.  This might not be the preference of the purest, but its quick and does a good job (I should get a face-mask).  Isoponed some of the holes up, and it is starting to feel much more rigid.  The bonnet is the bit with some damage, but I have mostly fixed that.

7) Radiator vent hole.
Not sure what to do with this.  John Bonnet built a beautiful aluminium thing for his, but ended up painting it.  I am thinking of painting the GRP following the lines of his metalwork, I will affix some kind of mesh underneath (its easy to bond to the underside, and the top looks nice, a standard trick).  If all this is painted black, then it should be alright.  I need to smooth off all the edges to satisfy the SVA man, but that isn't rocket science.  If this looks good, then I will do the same for the side-vents (1).

Top-tip on removing RGB stickers.  Heat gun and peal them off slowly, the big round ones have nightmare glue, but if done slowly this can stick to the sticker (pulling the thinnest tint of colour off), the others (MDS batteries, Redline oil, RGB750) leave residue but this is easily soaked off with Gunk (which doesn't damage the cellulose paint).

LIGHTS

Trial fitted the headlights that I had previously bought.  All fit perfectly, even using the existing holes.

Phoenix with headlight

The rear lights are also perfect fit, so that is an easy job.

Side repeaters.  I had become a real anorak over repeaters for indicators.  This seems to be an area where people just get on with it, but it seems I have created loads of problems.  My personal favourite indicators were new Mini (Mk I),  I like these as they have air vents, and are well made.  I got some, but the air vents are not really functional, and now I am not sure.  My personal favourite repeaters are Alfa 159 (also used on the Berera) and I managed to snaffle a new pair on the bay for about £6.  Anyway I have fitted them and they look (in my opinion) awesome.

Alfa 159 Berera side repeaters on a Phoenix

The only problem is that the back of them are not 100% flat, owing to some complex shape on the Alfas,  Not sure how to deal with that, but I have made such a big hole that I will have to work out a solution!  Oh, yes the mini ones are on the ground by that file (for reference).  Update;  I have ordered loads of small files from Screwfix, hopefully I can do some appropriate gouging of the bodywork to get everything snug.

Update again;  worked out a nice trick with filler.  
1) file out behind indicator where it is touching badly to help it sit flat (Dremel is ideal for this)
2) use filler (isopon) over the whole area and while wet put the indicator on.
3) scrape around edge so that it is just behind the indicator, no sharp edges
4) wait 10 mins, but not any longer, until the filler goes "cheesy"
5) remove indicator carefully.  At this point it should come off leaving the filler on the body.
6) clean the indicator (I used a green scrubby cloth, and then had to polish the plastic again "Peek" is amazing stuff(
7) Clean the filler up with 400 wet and dry, and paint.

Only done one of these so far, but I think its going to turn out nicely.

Fog light
I got a mini one (centre item) identical to Craig Seymour.   It is angled at the correct angle so that it can fit in the nice moulding at the back of the bodywork.  I need to cut a hole and fix it in.  It looks like it should all fit, just need to do the work.  Interestingly from an SVA perspective the face of the light is supposed to be vertical, but the light isn't like this on a Mini,  I guess the examiner will work it out!
Update: cut a nice hole, the light fits so well that I can't get it out!  So I guess its staying in.

DRIVE SHAFTS
Mel Coppock still hasn't sent me my modified drive-shafts.  I contact him every fortnight, and he is very friendly, and now increasingly apologetic.  They better be good when they arrive it has been 4 months now!  They've been shipped, so I am optimistic (you've got to be).

MEASUREMENTS TO MAKE

Prop-shaft lengths (I want to get this ordered), I measured it before, but the piece of paper went through the washing machine!
Prop_mounting_photo
Bailey Morris Order
I had decided that the prop-shaft was not urgent, but now I can't remeber why, damn I am losing those marbles faster than I realised.  I now remember, it gave me the option of moving the engine, but life is too short.  I measured up the prop and ordered one from Bailey-Morris (these guys might not be the cheapest, but they do have the best reputation, and  a prop-shaft that runs next to your leg at 6000rpm is not something that you want to cut corners on).

JOBS DONE
Got down to my dads.  Nice bits of progress. Final fitting of the engine, only 3 of the 4 corners of the frame actually fitted to a little fettling was needed, not too bad just acouple of mm here and there.  Fitted bracket for fuel tank (brackets right length, bolt too short).  Refitted the front rockers, and picked up an old grease-gun (I poped some grease nipples into the rockers, so somehow need to fill these...).
Fitted the rear calipers, looks like that I am going to have to have the calipers (Sierra) upside down (everyone has to do this so it is no surprise).  The route for the handbrake cable is a bit funny, but it seems to work okay (sorry no photos).
Handbrake cabling is a bit more complicated.  I got a nice turnbuckle for the handbrake, but unlike the Sierra one the Fiat Coupe one needs a cable.  So it is back e-bay chandlers to sort something out.

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